review: nanlite pavoslim 120C
What’s up light lover! Today’s review is going to cover the Nanlite 120C panel light. This light has become one of my favorites over the last few months, and it has some of the most accurate color metrics of any light I’ve tested so far! Let’s get right into it!
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overview
The nanlite 120C is a 150W RGBWW 2×1 panel light that costs $800 USD.
It comes with a separate ballast, two types of removable diffusion, diffusions? Diffusion. A slip-on grid, and two different mounting plates.
The 120C has a v-mount battery slot, and can be controlled via the ballast, NANLINK app, DMX, or CRMX.
build quality
The build quality of this unit is exceptional for the price point.
I love the wired pop-up style softbox, and how it velcroes down for storage. Having this light be set ready in seconds when coming out of the storage box means it’s my go to light when I need something quick and easy. Setting up the box and diffusion on the amaran f22c took longer than I wanted every time, so this new design by Nanlite is very welcomed.
The softbox can be removed if space is a concern, or you just want to use the light as a 2×1 hard panel. Using just the bare panel allows the user to tape the unit to a wall or ceiling to minimize stand usage or when space is a concern. The LED’s are even domed to increase forward throw when the light is used without diffusion.
The provided grid slips on easily and does exactly what it’s supposed to do – control the light from spreading. I used it to great effect here in this shot for a dentistry service to keep my overhead light from spilling onto the back wall.
The entire light is fanless for silent operation. The ballast is one giant heat sink, and the back panel of the light is similarly engineered for heat dissipation.
The hard back panel also means I’m not worried about the interior cabling of this light eventually wearing out due to folding a soft panel back and forth.
Locking connectors on all the plugs means I don’t have to worry about them slipping out while rigging.
It’s got a single V-mount battery slot for 14.4-26V/12A batteries. I wish the screen displayed an estimated time remaining instead of just a 4 bar battery icon when running off battery power though.
For the price point of $800, I’ve even found the durability has been phenomenal. After 4 months of near weekly set use, nothing seems out of place on my unit.
ergonomics
I found this light super easy to use. There is one exception though, but it’s easily fixable with some cold hard cash.
I wish the light came with a longer header cable. The attached one isn’t long enough for how often I’m booming this light in or rigging it in hard to reach places. Nanlite offers another 8 foot extension cable on their website for $36. This extra cable can be daisy-chained to the provided one, doubling the header cable length. It’s great that there is a solution, but I wish an additional header cable was just given to us.
The ballast can be stored in the case with the power cables attached, and even the header cable still attached to the light, meaning this light can be deployed super quickly on set. Just slap on your choice of mounting options and go.
mounting
Speaking of mounting, the back of the panel has three spots for the mounting brackets to be attached. They can be placed in the center, or off-set on one side to get a little more reach when booming the light in.
To slot into these, the Nanlite 120C comes with 2 different mounting brackets, a junior pin receiver and a junior pin.
The brackets attach to the light by pulling up on this little pin, centering the bracket over the larger hole side of the slots, dropping it in, then sliding until a click is heard. I found these to be incredibly easy and simple to use. I love this mounting method.
Repositioning with the junior pin receiver is made easier by a magic-arm style middle part that even has a notch removed so that any angle can be achieved.
When alternate mounting options are necessary, there’s 4x 5/8″ threaded receivers on the back so baby pins or hooks can be attached to the light as well.
user interface
Two buttons and two knobs give the user access to all the necessary features and options on the ballast.
The Mode button lets the user choose which lighting mode they’d like to be in, while menu accesses the connectivity and some functional options.
The lighting modes are the standard array we’re used to seeing on lights these days.
The menu is pared down to just the essentials. Connectivity options with wifi, bluetooth, and DMX/CRMX can be found here, along with some screen control options like brightness and orientation, as well as a button backlight option.
communication
Speaking of connectivity options, the light can be controlled over wi-fi with a separately required transmitter, via bluetooth using the nanlink app, and it even has both DMX AND lumenradio CRMX.
The light worked flawlessly with the nanlink app, as well as through the blackout app via my lumenradio Aurora CRMX transmitter. Make sure that you update to the latest firmware. I was having issues using the light with CRMX until I did this.
light metrics
And now why you’re really here, let’s talk about the color accuracy of this unit!
I am *super* impressed with the light metrics on the nanlite pavoslim 120C. The unit stayed consistent across nearly all tested color temperatures and intensity combinations, the dimming curve was remarkably linear, and the color accuracy is incredible.
If you haven’t seen my video on how I analyze these next five graphs, make sure to go do that and then come back here because this next section will be much easier to understand.
Graph 1
Ideally a light should stay perfectly at 5600 Kelvin and 3200 Kelvin regardless of the intensity level, with 0 duv shift.
Let’s start with the daylight, 5600 Kelvin measurements. For the Nanlite 120C, the measured CCT values stayed within the 5600K perceptible range from 100% intensity down to 10%. At 5% the measurement dipped down to 5,507 Kelvin, which is barely below 1 JND value warmer than the 5600K range. Duv measured approximately 0.0020 across the range from 100% to 10%. At 5%, duv increased to 0.0025.
On to how the 120C performed at 3200K. Beginning with 100% intensity, the color temperature values started just over 1 JND value warmer than 3200K at 3,146 Kelvin, and trended cooler to 3,225 Kelvin as intensity was lowered to 5%. The light entered the 3200K perceptible range at 55% intensity, staying there the rest of the time, but moving towards just below 1 JND above the 3200K mark by 5%. The duv measurement was between 0.0020 and 0.000 throughout the spectrum.
Let’s quickly display how these graphs compared to the data I collected for the amaran F22c. As we can clearly see, the Nanlite Pavoslim 120C does a much better job at staying true to both 5600K and 3200K, even if it has a slightly larger duv value.
Graph 2
A perfect light would lay along the TM-30 Reference White line with no deviation as we lower the intensity from 100-25%. It is probably more realistic currently to expect a light to have less than 1/8 of color correction across the entire color temperature spectrum.
At 100% intensity, the light stayed well within the 1/8 color correction guides from 2,700K to 7,000K. The light was slightly greener from 2,700K until about 4,300K. At 4,400K the light shifted to being slightly magenta for the rest of the CCT spectrum. At 3,200K, 5,600K and 7,000K, the light was accurate to the reference color temperature. This graph changed slightly as the intensity of the light was decreased from 100-75-50-25%. From 75-25% intensity, the green shift from 3,400 Kelvin reduced and at 2,700 Kelvin strayed from a green to slightly magenta hue shift.
Compared to the amaran F22c, the Pavoslim was slightly worse at staying along the Planckian curve. Not enough to be beyond a 1/16 color correction gel, which is barely perceptible to our eye, but the data is what it is!
Graph 3
There isn’t an ideal graph for this particular metric, but I want to know if a light perceptibly changes color in 5 degree increments because I’d like access to the whole color gamut.
The Pavoslim 120C measured consistent spacing every 5 degrees throughout the entire color spectrum when measured at 100% saturation and 100% intensity. This result means an end user should be able to find the particular color that they are looking for with this unit.
When compared to the amaran F22c, we can see groupings at the red, green, and blue loci of this graph, indicated a loss of fidelity in these areas when those hues are selected.
Graph 4
Hue values were tested in 30 degree increments and from 100 to 75 to 50% saturation. This was repeated across intensity levels of 100 percent, 75, 50 and 25 percent.
Like before, there isn’t an ideal for a manufacturer to hit. However, as an end user, I’d like my lights to perceptibly change as I desaturate from 100 to 75 to 50 percent saturation since that kind of feels like the point of that dial.
The Nanlite achieved perceptible difference across all tested saturation and intensity levels. Not only did each hue trend inward, but 75% also was generally in the middle of 100% and 50% saturation levels.
The amaran F22c was not able to achieve perceptible difference between 100% and 75% saturation levels in some of the tested hues, although this graph did stay the same as intensity as adjusted from 100% down to 25% intensity.
Graph 5
ON SCREEN TEXT “How consistent are the chromaticity values for each hue as intensity is lowered from 100-75-50-25%? Do these groupings change as the saturation level is reduced from 100 percent to 75 to 50?”
This is much like the first graph we looked at. But this time, instead of seeing how consistent the light is at staying at 5600 Kelvin or 3200 Kelvin, we’re seeing how consistent the hue values remain as intensity is lowered.
Basically, when we dials in a color at a chosen hue and saturation level at 100% intensity, a light should ideally stay at that same perceptible color no matter how much we dim it.
This is probably the one place I would have liked to see Nanlite perform better. These groupings aren’t as tight as it seems they could be, and the groupings for each hue grow larger as saturation is reduced from 100 percent to 75 percent to 50 percent.
When we compare this to the amaran F22c, we can see that although the chromaticity values of the amaran F22c don’t change between 100% and 75% saturation, the amaran does have much tighter groupings at each saturation level.
Graph 6
ON SCREEN TEXT “does a doubling of intensity equate with a one-stop increase in light across the entire intensity spectrum?”
The final thing I tested was how linearly the 120C dimmed from 100-5%. Ideally, a unit doubles its output when the intensity is doubled. Put another way, increasing intensity from 5 percent to 10, or 10 to 20, 20 to 40, and 40 to 80, should all measure as one stop increases in light.
The dimming curve on the 120C didn’t disappoint in this area either, and is incredibly linear when measured at a distance of 3 feet. I dimmed the unit from 100% to 5%, at standard color temperatures of both 5600 kelvin and 3200 kelvin. From 5% to 100% the unit consistently doubled in output when I doubled the percentage for both color temperatures. Anywhere the unit measures the same across two intensity values above 1,000 lux is due to the fidelity of my light meter.
accessories/modifiers
As previously mentioned the light comes with two different diffusion choices and a grid.
The magic cloth-esque diffusion that originally comes attached does a good job at blending all the LEDs into one soft panel.
The lighter, 1/4 grid diff ends up with this unique vertical led pattern, even though the leds themselves are arranged in horizontal rows at this color temperature.
I wasn’t able to detect multiple shadow patterns using the 1/4-grid, but I’ll probably only ever use this diffusion as a last resort when I need the extra output but still want to maintain some amount of softness.
summary
For $800, the nanlite 120C is a nearly perfect 2×1 panel with little to no compromise. The color accuracy on this unit is phenomenal, the build quality is splendid, and it couldn’t be faster to deploy or easier to use. I’m finding a use for it on nearly every set I go on.
I absolutely have no problems recommending you snagging one, or a couple, of these for your kit, and the 120C has me eager to see what else Nanlite has up their sleeves for future panel releases! Do we finally have the litemat killer we’ve all been waiting for?
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disclaimers
Nanlite provided the Pavoslim 120C for review
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This blog post contains only Tyler’s opinions about G&E, gaffing, and LED lighting, and was not reviewed or paid for by outside persons or manufacturers
Tyler Trepod is a freelance owner/operator gaffer of a 1-Ton Grip & Electric truck based in Denver, Colorado and serves the Boulder, Denver, Colorado Springs, & Fort Collins markets