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review: kelvin epos 300 – worth the price of admission?

What’s up light lover?! Today’s review is going to cover the Kelvin EPOS 300. This 320W RGBACL point source unit has a solid build quality, some clever design features, and above-average light metrics. Nobody likes long intros, so let’s dive right into it!

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build quality

You saw the beauty shots in the intro, this light is GORGEOUS.
 
The all-aluminum construction isn’t just for show though. The exterior shell of the head unit acts as a heat sink. This gives it better heat dissipation, which allows for lower fan speeds and less noise overall.
 
The locking clamp for the yoke of the head arrived with a little bit of a wiggle in it, but here’s the really neat thing. Rather than hide all the bolts internally like Aputure did with all of  their lights, 300, 600, and 1200 series, Kelvin placed theirs in an accessible manner. Meaning, I was able to just take out an Allen key and tighten the clamp back up on the EPOS 300. Despite really tugging on it again to, ya know, try to break it but not, but try for you guys, it didn’t re-loosen during my few months with it. A hidden feature about the disc brake is that it’s even got an angle angle measuring system laser etched into it.
 
The unit comes with a cord holder on the side of the yoke. I found this handy since the unit comes with a 20’ header cable or something. It reached the top of my mombo with ease at least, and that length is also great for when you need to boom this unit in. I appreciate that an extended cable is included and wasn’t an overpriced accessory like some companies are doing.
 
Speaking of cords, one thing I would like to see an improvement on is the quality of the connection between head unit and ballast. It’s just a standard 4-pin connection like on the Aputure 300d. I would like to see something beefier because I’m always worried about these little pins getting bent.
 
Moving down the yoke, the base of it can be used either as a junior or baby pin depending on the situation. There’s also a hole drilled through the pin in case you want to mount the light perpendicular to how it normally goes on a baby pin.
 
Kelvin even placed a threaded knob holder on the side of the yoke for when the head is placed in a junior receiver. I wouldn’t leave the knob there during storage though, because the unit is laid on that side during transport and I’d be nervous about crossing the threads.
 
I love the brightness of the bowens mount release tab, but the placement is a little frustrating. You’ll see later that some other brands modifier’s can be slightly difficult to remove.
 
The last neat feature of the head unit is how kelvin decided to blend the output of the leds. There is a magnetic ring around the COB, where either an included or separately purchased diffuser can be attached. If maximum output is necessary, the unit can be used without these diffusers to gain nearly a half a stop.
 
The EPOS 300 comes with the “D90”, which the output seems to be tuned using. You can also purchase a separate dome diffuser, which widens the spread of the beam to beyond 180 degrees to fill lanterns or space lamps. And these diffusers actually DO have an effect on the spread of the beam angle as you can see in these three images.
 
Moving on from the head, let’s talk about this eye-catching ballast.
 
First, the wonkiest part of the entire build is how the ballast attaches to a stand. It has this pop-out knob on the side that inserts into a mafer clamp.
 
Two things about this bugged me: first, no matter how hard you tighten down the mafer, the ballast freely rotates with gravity. The second is that you really need to crank on the mafer clamp to make sure the ballast isn’t loose either. I know they had to cut corners somewhere to keep costs down, but with how secure all the other brands are in their attachment styles, this one really sticks out as being off. I guess the advantage is pretty much everyone has an extra mafer on the truck in case the clamp gets left behind.
 
Here’s a design question every team is trying to figure out: how do you have a ballast that stands upright, has two v-mounts on it, and has cords that don’t stick out as a hazard, all without being a chonky beast? Nobody seems to have figured that out, every manufacturer makes a sacrifice somewhere. For the Kelvin EPOS 300, the power cord sticks out towards set and could potentially be snagged by someone walking by.
 
Otherwise the two v-mount battery slots that are enabled by this wire placement are great when you need to run this unit off battery power. One nice thing is that the transition between AC and battery power is flicker free. I do wish the battery indicator wasn’t just an icon but displayed an approximate amount of time that the unit could run off the battery at the current intensity level.
 
Don’t tell Kelvin but I reaaaaaally tried ripping this plastic handle off this ballast. Couldn’t get it to budge, and it also tucks out of the way when in use.
 
Lastly, let’s talk about the most distinguishing feature on the ballast. This ginormous touch screen with three knob control. I love the having a separate knob for each variable in CCT and HSI mode, rather than using one toggle wheel to try to make it work, it made tuning in the right setting a hassle free experience every time. And the huge screen that’s angled upwards made it easy to see what I was doing. It’s also dimmable in case the spill of it is affecting the scene.

user interface & software

As you can imagine, a giant touch screen lends itself to a smooth user interface system.
 
In CCT mode, the left knob controls intensity, the middle one CCT, and the right is your green & magenta adjustment. Can twist a knob or slide along the screen to your desired level depending on how you’re feeling that day. The color temperature range of this unit is a whopping 1,700K all the way up to 20,000K and it’s entirely usable along that whole spectrum. I’ll analyze the light metrics later in the review.
 
Continuing on, HSI mode has all the controls that you’d expect, and an extra feature that allows you to select the base CCT of the color you’re tuning in. This is a siiick feature that I wish more lights did.
 
Let’s say your camera is set to 3200K because you’re working with tungsten lighting. If I dialed in a 5600K red, it would look too purple because of the coolness of the 5600K compared to 3200K. By setting the base CCT to the same as the camera and then dialing in red, I’m now getting that hue registering properly in camera. This means there’s less work for the colorist to hue match and get colors correct, potentially saving production noticeable amounts of money in post.
 
Both CCT and HSI modes enable the selection of maximum vs constant output. The light will give me all the output it has for a given percentage with maximum output. Constant output means that the brightness stays the same regardless of what CCT or color its outputting. It enables me and the DP to lock in the exposure and then fool around with colors without affecting the ratio of the scene at all.
 
The EPOS 300 also has RGB and XY modes, and a gel library with both Rosco and Lee gels for those of you that prefer to get your colors that way. The HSI and RGB color modes enable the toggling of a working color space which helps with color representation depending on your post workflow.
 
The effects overall were pretty weak. I rarely ever use them, but I tried to use the fire effect when I was shooting a campfire scene, and the DP and I just decided to run this unit at 2,000K instead.
 
Like all modern professional units, this one comes with bluetooth connectivity for a phone app, CRMX control for those of us that run blackout or other iPad apps, and an option for hard lining a DMX cable in and out as well.

light metrics

The first thing I like to test on a new light is the linearity of the dimming. I want to be sure that cutting the intensity by 50% gives me a one stop reduction in output across the entire intensity spectrum.
 
After some initial testing with and without the D90 diffuser, I performed all the testing with it on as it seemed the unit was calibrated to use it. I’ll note for any tests if the diffuser was off.
 
At both 5600 kelvin and 3200 kelvin this unit was remarkably linear. That r-value for the 5600 slope is nearly perfect. One hiccup at 3200 kelvin is that the output at 100% and 90% read the same.
 
Another variable I like to test is the consistency of the color temperature across the dimming level. When a unit reads 5,600 kelvin at 100%, it would be nice if it read 5, 600 at 1% also.
 
This unit tested remarkably well in this regard. The color temperature reading at 1700 kelvin, 3200 kelvin, and 5600 kelvin barely fluctuated, with all of them being off by less than 100 kelvin from their target. At the high end of the CCT range, 20,000 kelvin, the unit sees a pretty dramatic shift when dropping below 25 percent towards 1%. This downward shift at low intensities begins occuring around 10,000 kelvin.
 
I measured a green or magenta shift to the output across all of the color temperatures and intensities I tested. I would have liked to see this be less of a shift, as 0.3 to 0.4 green or magenta can be noticeable if these units were paired with other manufacturers lights.
 
One interesting thing to me is that I can see the green to magenta shift in the 5600 kelvin intensity range in the spectrum graphs. Notice when the intensity level is reduced from 100% to 1% that the green portion drops proportionally to the blue, and the red band gets a little thicker.
 
Moving on to intensity readings, here’s the output in lux with the D90 diffuser on and off. I’ve added the output from my Aputure 300d as a standard that most of us are familiar with. I am impressed with how close the Kelvin output is to the Aputure 300d, considering the EPOS is a color unit and the 300d is daylight only.
 
Here’s the output of the unit using the included reflector, both with and without the diffuser, and again compared to the Aputure 300d with reflector as a standard.
 
I also popped on the aputure fresnel 2x to see if that worked, despite being built for a different ecosystem. Surprisingly, it increased the output both with and without the D90 diffuser. You can see the difference in using a lensing modifier that’s built for a unit vs. not, as the increase in output is significantly higher for the 300d.
 
Lastly, I tried the unit with the spotlight and found it to be pretty unusable with the diffuser. I got chromatic aberrations when trying to make cuts, and the output wasn’t increased like I would have hoped. Without the diffuser though, you can get a really cool effect. The spotlight can be focused to cast the LED cob pattern itself! Then, when set to something like color chase, this really neat digital color sweep effect comes out. Definitely not for corporate interviews but I can see this coming into play for a music video for sure.

will it crate?

The supplied carrying case is beefy, well-padded, and protective. But also slightly over-sized for the output compared to other brands. Will the Kelvin EPOS 300 fit into a rectangular milk crate so it can be stored more easily on the truck?
 
You bet it does! And I can even squeeze the reflector in there if I pack it just so.

worth the ticket price?

In a bubble, the Kelvin EPOS 300 is an immediate and resounding must-have for my kit. I appreciate all of the attention and design details that went into this build, and after my time with these demo units, I have little reservations that they will stand up to the rigors of set life.
 
HOWEVER, the elephant in the room is that the Aputure 600c costs the same price as this unit, and has usable fresnel and spotlight modifiers. The 600c also has nearly double the output when using CCT mode with no modifier, and the output is multiplied even further when using the fresnel.
 
One reason for the price to output discrepancy is that Kelvin performs all in-house manufacturing in Europe, whereas Aputure does a significant amount of their manufacturing in China where labor costs are lower. If Kelvin can offset the increase in cost to their units with an increase in attention to their customer service and slightly better color metrics, then I see a great niche for them in being a step above the quality of the ever present Aputure, Godox, and Nanlite units that we see everywhere.
 
If you have a little extra to spend on your lighting package, and you want a 300W full spectrum unit with a wide CCT range, CRMX, and an attractive and functional build aesthetic, then I highly recommend the Kelvin EPOS 300. I loved my time with my two demo units.

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disclaimers

– Kelvin provided the EPOS 300 units for review

– Some of the links in Tyler’s blog posts are affiliate links, which means that qualifying purchases will help financially support Tyler at no extra cost to you. If you wanted to purchase something else but still support Tyler, please use the following link: https://amzn.to/3WdnsdM

– This blog post contains only Tyler’s opinions about G&E, gaffing, and LED lighting, and was not reviewed or paid for by outside persons or manufacturers
 
– Tyler Trepod is a freelance owner/operator gaffer of a Grip & Electric truck based in Denver, Colorado and serves the Boulder, Denver, Colorado Springs, & Fort Collins markets